The ‘fun’ Fox Glacier Route

Rachel Smith & Robert Phillips | February 2021

Armed with some 3-month old (but apparently outdated) route advice, Rob & I created the ‘fun’ route up the Fox glacier to Chancellor hut:

A) Kerosene taxi: Cheating! (not that we could afford it)

1.       Walk up road: We nailed this bit!

2.       Cross the (swift flowing, silty, ice chunky) Fox River: We couldn’t feel our legs for half an hour after this. We later learned this step was avoidable.

3.       Cross an ice shelf on the terminal face of glacier: We nailed this bit, but later learned that this too was unnecessary.

4.       Scramble up ‘suicide alley’:  This rocky gut was surprisingly nice. We were actually on route here.

5.       Cross the Fox white-ice: We got off-route here and ended up lost front-pointing in a maze of steep undulating ice ridges

6.       Dubious choss scrambling: This was required to compensate for the poor route choice on the white-ice, we were definitely off route here.

7.       Follow the DoC track: We succeeded at this for only a short while…

8.       Leave the DoC track in favour of the direct route: Reverse canyoning up a slippery waterfall face just seemed like a good idea. You might want a rope.

9.       You’ve made it. Be sure to check the hut cupboards thoroughly – there could be beer in there: (we forgot this step, until right as we were leaving)